Deborah Lyon has been taking her children to the Maldives for years. Returning for her husband Gez’s 60th birthday, she finds that the islands still work beautifully for every age – from sandcastles and hermit crab races to scuba diving, gym sessions and sunset cocktails

As a family of keen divers, we’ve been visiting the Maldives since our kids were small and we’re yet to find anywhere that compares. Direct overnight flights from Heathrow to Malé with British Airways or Virgin Atlantic take around eleven hours. A film, a bite to eat, then it’s simply a question of getting your head down until you wake up descending over turquoise waters and coral-ringed atolls into Malé, one of the most densely populated capitals in the world.

The Republic of Maldives consists of 1,192 islands spread over 90,000 square kilometres. Velana International Airport serves as the gateway to the entire archipelago and, following a recent US$1 billion expansion, is now seriously impressive. The redeveloped international terminal, opened in July 2025, rivals any in the world, while a new runway accommodates larger aircraft and growing visitor numbers.

In my experience, arrivals are smooth and welcoming, with a calm, air-conditioned immigration hall – a marked improvement on the old facilities. Within minutes, you’re through arrivals, greeted by a resort representative and guided onward, either by speedboat or to a connecting seaplane, depending on your island destination.

For us, it’s a 30-minute seaplane journey to Lily Beach Resort on Huvahendhoo Island in the South Ari Atoll. Even as a slightly nervy flyer, I always marvel at the view: crystal blue seas and seemingly infinite atolls. Operated by Trans Maldivian Airways, the world’s largest seaplane fleet, these flights are efficient, professional, and reassuringly well run. Landing directly on the water is an experience in itself.

From there, you’re transferred by a traditional wooden dhoni boat with its classic curved prow and, a moment later, welcomed ashore to the sound of a boduberu drum. Almost instantly, the stresses of travel disappear.

Accommodation at Lily Beach ranges from beachfront villas to overwater suites perched on stilts. When our children were younger, the family beach villas were ideal. We loved our shared time building sandcastles and racing hermit crabs, with the kids crashing out as soon as their heads hit the pillow.

Now the children are older and value their independence, we stay at The Residence, which has a private plunge pool and beautiful interiors. They still have their own villa nearby, close to Vibes Bar, where they can enjoy the amenities, large swimming pool during the day and live entertainment in the evening.

Lily Beach’s platinum plan includes an array of high-quality dining experiences, spa treatments, excursions, yoga and many other treats. It takes all the hassle out of the holiday and is fantastic value for money. Activities such as diving are charged additionally, but you can get by almost entirely on the platinum plan if you want to.

Along with incredible spreads laid on in the main restaurant, Lily Maa, there’s Tamarind over the water for Oriental and Asian flavours, Aqva for light snacks and cocktails, and Teppanyaki for an authentic Japanese experience. You can also book private dining on the beach for an extra-special occasion, as we did for my husband Gez’s 60th birthday this year.

You won’t go hungry.

When the kids were small, they couldn’t run fast enough after breakfast to Turtles Club, where they enjoyed arts and crafts, fishing trips, hermit crab races and a shaded outdoor playground under the watchful eyes of the caring staff.

Now they’re older, alongside cocktails and karaoke, they love the fully equipped gym, tennis courts and five-a-side football pitch. There’s no reason to get bored on this island.

The snorkelling at Lily Beach is second to none, with a pristine house reef accessible right from the villas. Snorkelling equipment is provided and you can book a guided tour or head off independently.

The scuba diving centre is of the highest quality, with knowledgeable instructors from beginner to advanced level, who can take you through your PADI certifications. Manta rays, whale sharks, octopuses, turtles and every tropical fish you can imagine are abundant in the reefs and atolls of the surrounding waters and every dive brings something new, even for the most experienced diver.

The island itself is surreally tranquil with a strong commitment to sustainability. At sunrise, blacktip reef sharks slink through the shallows; at sunset, fruit bats flit across the sky as water hens croak from the undergrowth. It’s a place where you feel genuinely connected to nature.

For downtime (although it’s all downtime here, really), the wooden Tamara spa complex on stilts over the water is minimal, flawless and incredibly reviving. The staff mainly hail from Indonesia, and a Balinese massage after a long flight makes any aches and creaks a mere memory. Tamara offers such a wide range of treatments that it is tempting to try them all.

What really sets Lily Beach apart is its people. The staff, predominantly Maldivian, Sri Lankan and Indian, are all set on making your stay as memorable as possible, with a natural hospitality reflecting their authenticity and kindness.

The general manager, Laurent, is often seen walking the island, checking on what’s going on and chatting to guests – a sign of the attention to detail that comes from the top.

People come back to Lily Beach year after year – we met a couple on their 20th visit – because for them, as for us, it feels like a second home.

My main piece of advice if you’re travelling to the Maldives as a family is simple: do your research. Find your own Lily Beach. The reason it’s lasted so well for us as our children have got older is the sheer range of activities.

Whilst our kids still enjoy a hermit crab race, they also quite like a good cocktail these days, too. So, if you make sure there’s something for everyone in your family, the days will fly by… far too quickly.

An old Maldivian proverb says, ‘Seek peace and pursue it.’ At Lily Beach, peace comes from the moment you step onto the sand and leave your shoes behind, to the final glance as you depart to the sound of the seaplane propellers. That’s why we return time and time again.

The European’s travel coverage is produced without payment or editorial control from hotels, resorts or tourism bodies unless clearly stated otherwise, allowing our writers to give honest, firsthand accounts of the places they visit.

 Deborah Lyon travelled independently and received no complimentary flights, accommodation, meals, transport, admission or other benefits in connection with this article.

Deborah Lyon is a writer, editor and hospitality entrepreneur based in the Lake District. She left London two decades ago to restore a derelict Victorian estate near Windermere, now The Heaning — a five-acre collection of self-catering properties rooted in local craftsmanship and Cumbrian heritage. Alongside running the estate, she writes about landscape, place and belonging, drawing inspiration from the fells and literary traditions that surround her. Her first novel, the acclaimed children’s book Timewaif & The Roman Road, was praised for its evocation of Roman Cumbria and its “human stories told with tenderness and truth”. She is also the author of Lake District Unlocked, a family travel guide to the region’s hidden landmarks.

READ MORE: ‘Paris at 43C and still the coolest city in Europe‘. Even in a brutal heatwave, the French capital retains its style, charm and sense of escape. Deborah Lyon finds refuge in its museums, churches, cinemas, gardens and shaded streets.

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_{All images: Deborah Lyon}