Armed with nothing but a ferry ticket, a classic Mini and a sense of adventure, a father–daughter trip to Normandy turned into a journey of grand châteaux, empty beaches and unexpected discoveries, as our motoring editor Mark Whitchurch found
Spontaneity can be risky. It can also deliver the richest rewards. This year, with my daughter growing up fast and the window for one-on-one summer adventures narrowing, I decided to ditch the detailed holiday planning. We would take my classic Mini, cross the English Channel, and let Normandy reveal itself, one unscripted moment at a time.
The only bookings I made were for the Brittany Ferry from Poole in Dorset to Cherbourg and somewhere to sleep on the first night. The rest I left to chance, local recommendations and whatever caught our eye along the way.
We set off from Bristol in the southwest of England at 5am, keeping to the A-roads for a relaxed drive south, avoiding the monotony of motorways. By 8.30am, the Mini was tucked on board the ferry and we were in our four-berth cabin with a window – an unnecessary luxury, perhaps, but the perfect place to rest on the four-hour crossing and arrive in France ready to go.
The weather was glorious as we rolled off in Cherbourg, with no air-conditioning and all windows open in the Mini, joining the Route des Caps south. This scenic stretch clings to the coastline, linking country lanes perfect for hikers, cyclists and the occasional meandering classic car. Panoramic sea views drew us off course again and again, across dunes to vast, empty beaches scattered only with shells and driftwood.
A village café provided coffee and a snack before we ambled on. Our only aim was to reach our accommodation by nightfall – a 9.9-rated find on Booking.com that I hoped would live up to its score: Château de Chantore.
The approach did not disappoint. Through immaculate parkland dotted with mature, exotic trees, the 18th-century château came into view, its design said to have given the original owners sweeping views of Mont Saint-Michel. Bernard Legal, owner and host, welcomed us with genuine warmth. Inside, three deluxe rooms, two suites and a cottage are furnished with antique French pieces and silk-lined walls. It may not be everyone’s style, but the authenticity and presentation were impeccable and the modern en-suite was welcome, indeed.
From our window we watched black stallions grazing and peacocks strutting across the lawns – just one more touch to an already extraordinary setting. Over our four-night stay, Bernard’s recommendations shaped our days, starting that evening with a booking at La Pause des Genêts, a small restaurant 10 minutes away. A Thai influence on French cuisine made for an excellent meal – another point to our “go-with-the-flow” approach.
Breakfast the next morning was theatre. In the château’s formal dining room, surrounded by antique oil paintings, grand silverware, vintage Danish vases and Rodin-style sculptures, Bernard served a spread of estate-made apple juice, apple jelly, red berry jelly, honey, fresh bread, ham and his “special” scrambled eggs, to be eaten with a golden fork rather than the silver cutlery. Strong French coffee kept the conversation flowing as Bernard, speaking in several languages, ensured every guest was well-fed and had a plan for the day. For us: Granville in the day, Mont Saint-Michel in the evening.
Granville, scene of a daring German raid on Allied forces late in the second world war, is now known as “the Monaco of the north” for its coastline and views to Jersey. Following Bernard’s advice, we visited the Musée Christian Dior, in the designer’s childhood villa. Following the coast road through quiet villages with more beautiful beaches, we found ourselves behind another classic Mini – a happy coincidence that led to a friendly chat at the port and a tip for a perfect free parking spot. Overlooking the cliffs, the Dior gardens were immaculate, the Parisian-style open-air café serving superb homemade lemonade and pistachio cookies. For my daughter, a budding textiles student, the museum’s elegant presentation of Dior’s life and work was especially inspiring.
After an afternoon wandering Granville’s shops and cafés, and an hour on the beach, we set off for Mont Saint-Michel. Arriving as the hoards of tourists were leaving was inspired. This UNESCO World Heritage site is well organised, with parking and buses to manage visitor numbers. Avoiding the obvious restaurants, we sought a local tip. A chat while buying a fridge magnet led us to the newly opened Le Logis Sainte Catherine, high in the old town, where French celebrity chef Jean Imbert delivered the trip’s standout meal.
After dinner, the abbey’s after-dark light show transformed its interiors into a spectacular floodlit homage to the moon and our fascination with our nearest celestial neighbour. The effect turned the vast medieval monument into a vibrant, otherworldly space – worth both the climb and the entry fee.
Sunday in France is slow by nature, so we lingered over breakfast before heading to Fougeres, billed as Europe’s largest medieval town. Its castle held the Anglo-French battle line for four centuries from 900AD. An audio guide brought its bloody history to life. A gentle stroll through town, with café stops and open shops to browse, made for a pleasant afternoon.
Later, we explored the Parc Botanique de Haute Bretagne, where my daughter found her perfect contrast to the morning’s fortifications. Japanese-inspired gardens gave way to a vast network of beautifully presented spaces with strong architectural designs and exotic planting, connected by bridges over lakes and ponds, culminating in ice cream outside another grand château.
The hour-long trip back to Château de Chantore was via scenic back roads, the Mini faultless throughout. AA European breakdown cover and a thorough pre-trip check had paid off – the ten-year-restored engine, tuned for torque rather than speed, and a long-ratio gearbox made for effortless cruising at “social” speeds, music on, scenery rolling by.
We left after another of Bernard’s legendary breakfasts, choosing a fresh route north to Cherbourg, with a light lunch in Coutances overlooking its imposing Gothic cathedral. Before boarding the 6pm ferry, we visited the maritime museum, exploring exhibits on deep-sea exploration, a decommissioned submarine and a moving Titanic display housed in the original art deco–inspired reception building once used by passengers boarding the legendary ship in 1912. Among the artefacts recovered from the wreck was a marriage certificate that had survived under the sea for more than a century.
The return crossing was as plain sailing as the outward trip, the large sea-view cabin the perfect spot to watch the sun set on our 2025 Mini Adventure – a trip with minimal planning, maximum spontaneity, and memories that will last both of us a lifetime.
Want to do it yourself?
Whether you’re behind the wheel of a lovingly restored Mini or a modern saloon, you can follow the exact route taken by our motoring editor on his father–daughter Normandy adventure. From the ferry crossing and château stay to the scenic backroads, empty beaches and historic towns, here’s everything you need to recreate the trip – with room to add your own spontaneous detours along the way.
How to Recreate the Normandy Mini Adventure
The Car
- Vehicle: Classic Mini (fully restored, engine tuned for torque, long-ratio gearbox for cruising)
- Preparation:
- Full mechanical check before departure
- At least several hundred miles of use in the weeks before to iron out issues
- AA European Breakdown Cover (or equivalent)
- Basic tool kit, spare bulbs, fuses, fluids
- Driving Style: Stick to A-roads and scenic back routes for comfort and views
Ferry Crossing
- Route: Brittany Ferries – Poole to Cherbourg (and return)
- Crossing Time: Approx. 4 hours
- Cabin: Four-berth with window – ideal for resting and arriving fresh
- Booking: www.brittany-ferries.co.uk
Accommodation
- Base: Château de Chantore, Bacilly, near Mont Saint-Michel
- Style: Restored 18th-century château with views of Mont Saint-Michel, set in landscaped parkland with grazing horses and peacocks
- Rooms: Three deluxe rooms, two suites, one cottage
- Breakfast: Locally sourced organic produce, cooked and served by host Bernard Legal
- Booking: www.booking.com / www.chateaudechantore.com
Suggested Itinerary (Flexible – for Spontaneous Travel)
Day 1 – Arrival
- Arrive in Cherbourg, follow the Route des Caps south along the coast
- Detour to empty beaches and villages for coffee and snacks
- Check in at Château de Chantore
- Dinner at La Pause des Genêts (10 mins away – Thai/French fusion)
Day 2 – Granville & Mont Saint-Michel
- Visit Granville:
- Musée Christian Dior (designer’s childhood villa and gardens)
- Lunch or café stop in town
- Beach walk
- Evening at Mont Saint-Michel after crowds have gone
- Dinner at Le Logis Sainte Catherine (Chef Jean Imbert)
- Abbey light show after dark
Day 3 – Fougeres & Parc Botanique de Haute Bretagne
- Morning: Explore Fougeres Castle (audio guide recommended) and old town
- Afternoon: Parc Botanique de Haute Bretagne – Japanese gardens, lakes, bridges, themed landscapes
Day 4 – Return via Coutances
- Scenic back roads north to Cherbourg
- Lunch in Coutances (overlooking Gothic cathedral)
- Maritime Museum, Cherbourg: submarine tour, Titanic exhibition
- Ferry home
Top Tips for Motorists
- Avoid French motorways where possible – A-roads and D-roads are quieter and more scenic
- Be ready to take spontaneous detours – some of the best stops aren’t on the map
- Book accommodation for the first night, but leave the rest flexible
- For classic cars: carry a printed map in case GPS fails, and factor in rest stops to cool the engine on hotter days
- French villages can have narrow streets – park on the edge and walk in
Mark G. Whitchurch is a seasoned motoring journalist whose work—covering road tests, launch reports, scenic drives, major races, and event reviews—has appeared in The Observer, Daily Telegraph, Bristol Evening Post, Classic & Sports Car Magazine, Mini Magazine, Classic Car Weekly, AutoCar Magazine, and the Western Daily Press, among others. He won the Tourism Malaysia Regional Travel Writer of the Year in 2003 and is a member of The Guild of Motoring Writers.
All photos: Mark Whitchurch
