Second to none: the watchmaker who redefined time for women

Time really does fly. More than 30 years have passed since Giselle Rufer set out to create a watch that would reflect women’s lives, talents and presence in the world of horology. Her brand, Delance, has become an enduring symbol of creative independence — designed for women, rich in meaning, and rooted in the belief that their time should be honoured on its own terms. In this exclusive interview, she speaks to The European’s John E. Kaye about artistic expression, personal conviction, and what it means to design with purpose

This summer marks 31 years since Giselle Rufer took the first step toward redefining the place of women in Swiss watchmaking. In July 1994, she registered the name ‘Delance’, giving form to an idea that had been quietly building: a watch brand created with women in mind, in an centuries-long industry that had rarely considered them.

Rufer, an engineer by training and an artist by instinct, had spent years immersed in what she describes as “a fascinating but deeply masculine universe”. The discipline and precision of horology had taught her how to merge technical mastery with aesthetic beauty. But it had also shown her how easily women’s voices could go unheard.

“There, I learned precision, discipline, and the art of blending technical mastery with aesthetic beauty,” she told The European in a rare interview. “I also learned how to claim my place, to make my voice heard.”

By the early 1990s, she found herself asking a different question: what would a timepiece look like if it spoke directly to women — not only in form, but in meaning?

“One day, an idea began to take root in me,” she explained. “What if I designed a watch that spoke to women, not only through its shape, but through its symbolism? A timepiece that would express their strength, their sensitivity, their courage, and their creativity.”

That vision became reality in 1996 with the launch of the first Delance watch. Its distinctive diamond-shaped case — curved and sculptural — drew on symbolic forms: the hourglass, the infinity symbol, the maternal womb. A spiral at twelve o’clock represented the moon and femininity; a gemstone placed at six o’clock signified the sun and the masculine.

It remains one of the most iconic designs in the history of watchmaking — a timepiece conceived not merely as an object of beauty, but as something deeply personal. “Every element was designed with intention,” Rufer explained. “To create a piece of jewellery that carries within it a story — the story of the woman who wears it.”

“I wanted this watch to celebrate women’s time — not just the kind measured by hands and hours, but the time of life itself: our choices, our cycles, our paths,” she added. “I wanted it to be a talisman, a marker, a tribute to the richness of our journeys.”

Each Delance watch is designed to reflect that philosophy. Often personalised, they are set with chosen gemstones, engraved dates or motifs that commemorate meaningful milestones. The name itself honours her father, Fridelance, whose memory runs through the brand’s founding spirit. “It’s that intimate connection, that silent dialogue between object and person, that moves me the most,” she told us.

Despite growing interest from larger players in the industry, Delance has remained deliberately small and wholly independent. Over the years, Rufer has turned down numerous offers to take the brand global or adapt its model for mainstream appeal. “I never wanted Delance to become just another brand,” she said. “It was always meant to carry meaning.”

She continues to design each model herself, while also mentoring emerging creatives and entrepreneurs. As an international speaker, she has addressed business leaders, artisans, students and women’s groups around the world. Her 2016 memoir, Butterfly in a Storm, traces a personal and professional journey through loss, defiance and quiet determination at a time when female entrepreneurship was far from the norm.

“Being a woman is wonderful, being a woman is magical, being a woman is mysterious,” she once told an audience. “Have the courage to be everything you can be. You owe it to yourself and you owe it to your daughters.”

Now in its fourth decade, Delance’s brand philosophy remains unchanged: women’s time matters. And it deserves to be honoured on its own terms.

Further information

Produced with support from www.delance.com/en/