Diving into… Haute-Savoie, France

In the latest instalment of his popular Diving into… series for The European, ultra-endurance swimmer and journalist Ben Hooper trades murky lakes and leisure centres for the glacier-fed clarity, Alpine backdrops and storied waters of France’s Haute-Savoie

If open-water swimming for you means murky, silt-filled lakes, rivers strewn with litter, or endless laps in a chlorinated pool, then Haute-Savoie is here to blow you out of the water—literally. Here you’ll swap chlorine for glacier-fed clarity, lane ropes for mountain backdrops, and your fellow swimmers for the occasional swan with an attitude problem.

Nestled in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, France, this is where mountains meet lakes in a postcard-perfect embrace – God’s Country. It’s a playground for the bold: crystal-clear alpine waters, peaks that demand respect, cheese so decadent it deserves its own fan club, and enough après-swim activities to keep you from ever leaving. Whether you’re a seasoned open-water swimmer, a family splasher, or simply a fan of dangling your toes off a jetty while sipping a chilled glass of Apremont, Haute-Savoie is a dip worth taking (Spoiler: you’ll never look at your local pool the same way again).

Welcome to the Haute-Savoie region of France…

Let’s start with a little context. Haute-Savoie became part of France only in 1860, handed over from the Kingdom of Sardinia. This partly explains why its cultural identity feels like a French Italian fondue. Locals are fiercely proud of their traditions, their cheeses (Reblochon, Tomme de Savoie), and their landscapes.

Geographically, the region has it all—dramatic alpine ranges (including Mont Blanc towering at 4,808m), vast valleys and forests so green, and a series of lakes so clear you’ll wonder if someone secretly filtered them for Instagram. The weather is equally dramatic. Summers are warm but rarely sweltering, with air temperatures ranging from 22–28°C in July and August—perfect for long lake swims (20.6℃ average water temperature). Winters are icy (4 – 4.7℃ average water temperature), and if you’re planning on a dip in December, please send me a postcard (and your will).

As an aside, did you know – Haute-Savoie has more lakes and reservoirs than any other French region. It’s a dream for water lovers, but also a reminder that alpine lakes, though beautiful, can be shockingly cold, even in midsummer. Consider this nature’s polite way of saying: ‘don’t overstay your welcome,’ and always be safe (see end of my article for safety tips).

Check out these swim locations – with caution…

Lake Annecy

The star of Haute-Savoie’s aquatic show. Europe’s cleanest lake (no small feat) is ringed by mountains and picture-perfect villages. Popular entry points include the Plage d’Albigny (free, family-friendly, grassy banks) and the quieter Talloires Bay. Water temperatures hover between 20–24°C in summer, but beware: winds can whip up quickly, and boats are abundant. Stick to designated swim zones, and if you’re venturing further, tow float mandatory (yes, you’ll look like a swimming balloon—better that than being mistaken for a duck by a passing speedboat).

Lake Geneva (Lac Léman)

Shared between France and Switzerland, this beast of a lake is 73km long and deep enough to

swallow several Eiffel Towers. The French side around Thonon-les-Bains and Évian-les-Bains offers stunning swim spots. The water can feel brisk (18–22°C in peak summer), and currents are no joke—so think short swims near beaches rather than channel attempts (unless you fancy becoming a headline). There is also the annual cross lake swim events: Swim of Legends or The Classique. These are long distance swims, solo or relay, and not to be approached lightly – but pure, beautiful adventure for those who do.

Lac de Montriond

Near Morzine, this is a lesser-known alpine gem. Surrounded by sheer cliffs and forests, it feels secretive, mystical even. The lake is smaller and calmer than Annecy, making it perfect for tranquil swims. Bonus: canoe hire, and shaded picnic areas mean non-swimmers are kept happy. Water temperatures are cooler (16–20°C in midsummer), so brace yourself before diving in (or, let’s be honest, squealing in) and always stay safe out there.

Lac des Confins

For those who like their swims with mountain drama, this small alpine lake near La Clusaz is ideal. Set at 1,420m, it’s more of a plunge-pool experience than a long-distance training site. Cold, refreshing, and best enjoyed with a post-swim tartiflette in the nearby village. Consider this the perfect marriage of masochism and melted cheese.

Attractions to visit…

Château d’Annecy – Overlooking Lake Annecy, this medieval castle once housed the Counts of Geneva. Entry costs around €5.50, with free parking in town if you’re lucky (rare), or use the paid car parks. Exhibits include alpine art, lake ecology, and enough historic armour to spark a knightly daydream.

Aiguille du Midi Cable Car (Chamonix) – For €70 return (yes, it stings), you’re whisked to 3,842m for jaw-dropping views of Mont Blanc. Parking is easy in Chamonix, but altitude sickness is free. Pack warm layers even in August — the summit is perpetually frozen (your Instagram followers will never forgive you if you skip this).

Yvoire – This medieval village on Lake Geneva’s shore is often dubbed one of the most beautiful in France. Cobbled streets, flower-strewn balconies, and the Garden of Five Senses (€12 entry). Parking outside the old town is plentiful, though it fills quickly in summer. Bring your camera – and possibly an extra memory card.

Les Gorges du Fier – Just 10km from Annecy, this narrow gorge features a dramatic walkway suspended 25m above the rushing river. Tickets €6.50, parking free. It’s a short but unforgettable visit, especially for kids (or adults with a healthy fear of heights). Expect to say “wow” at least three-times.

Abbaye d’Abondance – Tucked away in the Abondance Valley, this 12th-century abbey is famous for its frescoes and, you guessed it, cheese aka fromage. Entry €5, with guided tours available. Parking is straightforward, and the surrounding village is a delight for a stroll. Cheese and culture: a pairing as timeless as wine and swim recovery snacks.

Hidden Gem Attraction – Maison du Fromage Abondance

Next door to the abbey lies an interactive cheese museum (€5 entry). Watch demonstrations of traditional cheese-making, taste local varieties, and, if you’re lucky, see the cows that made it all possible. It’s quirky, it smells glorious, and it’s as Haute-Savoie as it gets.

Where to eat…

La Table de l’Alpaga (Megève) – Michelin-starred dining in a luxury chalet setting. Expect €120–€200 per head for a tasting menu. It’s indulgent, exquisite, and worth it if your wallet can handle the workout.

Chez Ma Cousine (Annecy) – Mid-range and beloved by locals. Think Savoyard classics like fondue and raclette, hearty portions, and mains from €18–€25. Family-friendly, with a buzzing terrace. Warning: post-raclette swims are ill-advised unless you enjoy sinking gracefully. A near miss for me, again.

La Ferme du Père Bise (Talloires) – By Lake Annecy’s edge, with menus around €70 for lunch. The views alone justify it. If you want to eat fish fresh from the lake while feeling like you’ve stumbled into a French romance film, this is your spot.

Le Refuge des Gourmets (Machilly) – Michelin-starred but less intimidating, offering creative, seasonal menus from €45. Excellent for foodies who want fine dining without the pomp. Think of it as haute cuisine without the haute attitude.

Hidden Gem Eatery – Le Chalet de l’Aulp (near Col de la Forclaz)

This is a real hidden gem. This rustic mountain hut is accessible by car or on foot, serving fresh tartiflette, farmhouse charcuterie, and homemade blueberry tarts. Meals are around €20–€30. It’s hearty, it’s authentic, and you’ll eat it overlooking Lake Annecy with cows for company. Forget fine dining—this is the Savoie soul on a plate.

Where to stay…

Les Fermes de Marie, Megève – Luxury chalet hotel. Rooms from €350 per night. Pros: spa heaven, flawless service. Cons: your bank account may never forgive you.

Hotel du Palais de l’Isle, Annecy – Mid-range (around €130 per night). Pros: right in Annecy’s old town. Cons: small rooms and parking headaches. Look out for discount offers!

Auberge du Lyonnais, Annecy – Boutique charm by the canal. Rooms from €90. Pros: stylish, central. Cons: can be noisy in peak season.

Chalet-Hotel La Marmotte, Les Gets – Family-friendly, ski-in/ski-out in winter, great hiking base in summer. Rooms from €110. Pros: warm Savoyard feel. Cons: village nightlife might be too lively for light sleepers or those seeking peace in the mountains.

Camping Le Solitaire du Lac (Veyrier-du-Lac) – Pitch from €25, mobile homes from €60. Pros: lakeside setting and perfect for wild swimmers, and it is budget friendly. Cons: facilities can get crowded in August. Bring patience and flip-flops and a tow-float.

Other things to explore in the region include…

The obvious: Mont Blanc, Lake Geneva cruises, Chamonix hiking trails.

The less obvious: Plateau des Glières (a WWII Resistance site with stark memorials), and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval (a breathtaking cirque with waterfalls, hikes, and far fewer tourists). If you like your sightseeing with fewer elbows and more waterfalls, these are your go-to locations, as far as I am concerned.

Ben’s Open Water Swim Safety Tips:

1)      Never swim alone lakes can be deep, cold and unpredictable.

2)      Always use a tow float for visibility – boats beware!

3)      Check water temperatures before you plunge; alpine lakes can shock even in summer. Remember Professor Tipton’s advice!

4)      Avoid swimming after heavy rain – runoff can change water quality and temperature fast.

5)      Respect boat traffic; stick to marked swim zones.

6)      Don’t overestimate your distance – lakes look smaller than they are.

7)      Acclimatise slowly to cold water; no heroics required.

8)      Bright swim caps are non-negotiable.

9)      Watch out for sudden weather changes; storms roll in quickly in the Alps.

10)  Refuel properly post-swim—this is fondue country, after all (Carbs = Courage).

Ben Hooper made global headlines with his bid to swim every mile of the Atlantic Ocean — a challenge Sir Ranulph Fiennes OBE called “the last great bastion to be conquered.” His four-month, 2,000-mile route from Senegal to Brazil, known as Swim the Big Blue, was derailed mid-Atlantic after his support vessel was damaged by storms, despite him surviving a near-fatal encounter with thousands of Portuguese Man O’War. He remains the only person with a WOWSA-verified attempt at the feat. Follow him on Instagram and X @TheBenHooper or via www.thebenhooper.com

READ MORE: ‘Diving into…The West Country’. Ben Hooper swaps Berlin’s lakes and the Isle of Wight’s shores for the wild rivers, serene lakes and tidal pools of England’s glorious West Country

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_{Main image  Lake Annecy, courtesy Velion Icarus/Pexels}