On the trail of Captain Corelli: discovering Paros and Antiparos on two wheels

Paros and Antiparos may sit between the better-known islands of Mykonos and Santorini, but they offer the same whitewashed villages, sandy beaches and turquoise seas without the same crush of summer crowds. Most visitors explore on foot, by bus or in a small hire car, but Motoring Editor Mark G. Whitchurch chose a different approach, renting a Royal Enfield Classic 350 to tour fishing harbours, hilltop villages and quiet coves at his own pace

Paros and Antiparos sit in the heart of the Cyclades, halfway between Mykonos and Santorini. These two islands share the same bright whitewashed villages, turquoise seas and relaxed tavernas that the region is famous for, but without the same overwhelming crush of annual visitors.

Paros, a favourite stop on the Aegean ferry routes, has long been a hub for travellers hopping between islands. Antiparos, less than a mile across the strait from its larger neighbour, is smaller and more low-key, attracting everyone from backpackers and families to Hollywood stars with holiday villas tucked into the hills.

Most tourists explore both islands on foot, by bus, or in a small hire car. Others opt for scooters or quad bikes, which are cheap and easy to pick up.

But we decided to do it differently. For a week we rented a Royal Enfield Classic 350 from Ride Moto Rental in Naousa, the main town on the north coast of Paros. There is no better way to explore a Greek island than on two wheels, with the freedom to ride from fishing harbours to hilltop villages, stopping whenever you like to swim or eat.

A bike with character

The bike we hired was the Signals Limited Edition, finished in military green. Its styling and proportions are based on the Royal Enfield scout motorbikes used by British commando forces to liberate the Greek islands at the end of the Second World War.

With the Aegean on one side and the mountains of Paros on the other, it was easy to imagine a scene from Captain Corelli’s Mandolin: a soldier on a motorbike with his companion holding tight behind.

The Classic 350 is built on Enfield’s J-series platform. It has a 349cc air-cooled single-cylinder engine producing 20.2 bhp at 6,100 rpm and 27 Nm of torque at 4,000 rpm. It uses a five-speed constant mesh gearbox and disc brakes front and rear with dual-channel ABS. Suspension is provided by telescopic forks at the front and twin gas-charged shocks at the rear.

The bike weighs 195 kilos with fuel and fluids, carries a 13-litre tank and returns around 77 miles per gallon. The seat height is 805mm, making it accessible to most riders. Spoked wheels, a metal tank and analogue instruments give it its vintage character, while the exhaust note is the steady thump that defines a Royal Enfield.

It is smooth, comfortable and easy to ride. The Classic 350 is designed for steady cruising rather than speed, which makes it well-suited to island roads, harbours and hilltop villages.

Touring Paros

Our first ride took us east to Ambelas, a quiet fishing village just outside Naousa. The lanes leading in are narrow and lined with stone walls, fig trees and the occasional goat in the shade. At the small harbour, brightly painted boats rocked gently against the quayside, nets piled on the ground beside them.

Lunch was at Vasiliki Fish Restaurant, where tables spill onto a terrace with a sweeping view across the water to Naxos. It’s absolutely stunning.

The menu was simple and excellent: grilled octopus, stuffed peppers and tomatoes, and a rich homemade moussaka. As we ate, the Enfield parked by the boats drew approving glances from locals. One elderly fisherman paused, looked at the bike and nodded with a single word: “Klassiko”. Classic, indeed.

From Ambelas we carried on south, with the road hugging the shoreline and the bike hugging the road. The route passed whitewashed chapels, tiny hidden coves and stretches of olive groves before dropping down to Lolantonis Beach. Known locally as “the windless beach”, it is one of the calmest bays on the island, a natural shelter from the Aegean breezes. Families swam in the clear shallows while others snorkelled further out over patches of rock and seagrass. Above the sand sits The Cliffs, a lounge bar with cushioned seating, cocktails on ice and a mix of international and Greek food set to soft house music. It had a polished, almost cosmopolitan feel, a contrast to the quiet water below.

Later we turned inland for the climb to Lefkes, the old capital of Paros. The Royal Enfield coped easily with the winding ascent, weaving past terraces of vines and olive trees before the first whitewashed houses came into view. Lefkes is largely untouched by tourism. Its streets are cobbled, its balconies draped in bougainvillaea, and its neoclassical facades still stand intact. The village is closed to traffic, so we left the bike just outside and walked in. At Klarinos, a traditional café shaded by vines, we stopped for strong Greek coffee and plates of loukoumades, the bite-sized honey-soaked doughnuts that are as much a ritual here as a dessert. In the centre of the village the Agia Triada church dominated the skyline, its twin bell towers catching the afternoon sun and casting long shadows across the square.

Back in Naousa, we stayed at Kandiani Bleu Ciel. This boutique hotel has bright white rooms with wood and linen finishes. Our suite had a private terrace and hot tub framed by olive trees. Breakfast in the courtyard included spanakopita, fruit, yogurt with honey and strong coffee, served by Nikos and his friendly team.

Evenings meant wandering the old port. Once a fishing harbour, it is now a maze of tavernas and bars. At Agosta we tried an Aegean Spritz by the water. Linardo’s music went on late into the night. Safran and Stilvi served food to rival any fine-dining restaurant, though always with relaxed island charm.

Over to Antiparos

A short ferry ride from Pounda, south of Parikia, took us to Antiparos. The bike rolled easily on and off the boat, making island-hopping simple.

Antiparos town is compact but stylish, with independent shops, artisan stalls and cafes serving smoothies and ice cream. The highlight of the island is its cave. Covering 5,600 square metres and dropping 85 metres below ground, it is reached by a staircase of 411 steps. Inside are three chambers of stalactites and stalagmites, including Europe’s oldest stalagmite. Inscriptions date back to the Stone Age, and visitors have included the poet Archilochus and King Otto of Greece.

Further south, Agios Georgios faces the uninhabited island of Despotiko. Excavations there have uncovered a major sanctuary to Apollo. Beside the bay a quiet beach holds a memorial to local resistance fighters from the Second World War. With its military paintwork, the Enfield felt a fitting companion.

After a week exploring every corner of Paros and Antiparos, I reluctantly returned the bike to Chris at Ride Moto Rental. The Royal Enfield made touring Paros and Antiparos easy and enjoyable. It was comfortable on long days, drew admiring glances, and handled every road we tried. More than that, it was part of the setting. With its military paintwork and echoes of wartime history, it belonged on these islands every bit as much as the fishing boats and the chapels.

Getting there

Paros does not have an international airport so the quickest option is to fly into Athens and connect with a short domestic service on Sky Express. Most visitors, however, arrive by sea. Ferries leave Piraeus daily, with high-speed catamarans such as Seajets and Golden Star making the crossing in under four hours. For a slower but more scenic journey, Blue Star Ferries run larger vessels with open decks and cafés, ideal for watching the Aegean go by.

Paros is also linked directly with Santorini, Mykonos and Naxos, making it an easy hub for island-hopping. Arrivals dock at Parikia, the island’s port town, where cobbled streets, whitewashed houses and the smell of grilled seafood from tavernas set the scene for the days ahead.

Need to know

You don’t have to hire a bike to enjoy these stunning islands. Paros and Antiparos are well set up for visitors, with good bus services, car hire, plenty of taxis and regular ferries. But for those who want the freedom to reach quiet coves and hilltop villages, two wheels remain one of the best ways to get around. From where to stay to how to travel safely, here are the essentials.

Stay

Our base was Kandiani Bleu Ciel in Naousa. This boutique hotel combines Cycladic style with comfort. Rooms are bright and simple, some with private terraces and hot tubs. Breakfast in the courtyard features spanakopita, fruit and yogurt with honey. Naousa itself has a lively old port filled with tavernas, cocktail bars and late-night music.

Hire

Motorbikes and scooters are widely available on Paros and Antiparos. We used Ride Moto Rental in Naousa, which offers everything from scooters and quad bikes to larger machines like the Royal Enfield Classic 350. Hiring a motorbike is one of the best ways to explore, giving you freedom to reach smaller villages and beaches where buses do not run. Prices vary depending on engine size and season, but fuel is cheap compared to northern Europe.

Safety

Riding a motorbike on the islands can be dangerous. Roads are generally in good condition, but they are narrow, winding and shared with cars, lorries and buses. Surfaces can also be slippery with sand or gravel. Helmets are required by law and police do carry out checks. Travel insurance policies often exclude motorcycle accidents unless you have the correct licence, so check your cover before you hire. Scooters and quad bikes are easier to handle for inexperienced riders, and hiring companies will advise what is suitable.

Highlights

Seafood at Ambelas: a quiet fishing village with harbour-front tavernas and views across to Naxos.

Lolantonis Beach: known locally as “the windless beach”, sheltered and ideal for swimming.

Lefkes village: the old capital, with cobbled lanes, bougainvillaea and the impressive Agia Triada church.

Antiparos Cave: a vast underground cavern with Europe’s oldest stalagmite and inscriptions dating back thousands of years.

Agios Georgios: a small coastal village with views of the uninhabited island of Despotiko, famous for its ancient sanctuary to Apollo. Sunset here is unforgettable.

When to go

The main season on Paros runs from May to October. July and August are the hottest and busiest months, when beaches and tavernas are at their most crowded. May, June and September bring warm weather, calmer seas and a more relaxed feel. Autumn and winter are also good times to visit if you want to avoid the crowds altogether. The islands are much quieter, with cooler temperatures and a slower pace of life.

Getting around

If you don’t fancy the idea of hiring a motorcycle, Paros has buses linking Parikia, Naousa, Lefkes and several beaches. Taxis are also available but limited in number. Car hire is straightforward and gives more flexibility, though parking can be difficult in the centres of Naousa and Parikia.

Mark G. Whitchurch is a seasoned motoring journalist whose work—covering road tests, launch reports, scenic drives, major races, and event reviews—has appeared in The Observer, Daily Telegraph, Bristol Evening Post, Classic & Sports Car Magazine, Mini Magazine, Classic Car Weekly, AutoCar Magazine, and the Western Daily Press, among others. He won the Tourism Malaysia Regional Travel Writer of the Year in 2003 and is a member of The Guild of Motoring Writers.

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_{All photos: Mark Whitchurch}