Late-season sun, warm Adriatic waters and serious food credentials make Istria one of the most rewarding places to visit right now. With charming marinas, elegant hotels and space to breathe, this under-the-radar Croatian peninsula delivers a refined take on Mediterranean travel, finds John E. Kaye
The idea of Croatia as one of Europe’s last truly hidden destinations has long since passed. But Istria, tucked away in the country’s north-western corner, still feels refreshingly like the Med used to: quiet beaches, bobbing boats, and seldom a hen do in sight.
Set on a peninsula roughly 90 minutes south of Trieste and just across the water from Venice, Istria mixes central European ease with Mediterranean rhythm. It’s well connected – Pula airport has seasonal direct flights from most major European cities – and easily reached by road from Italy, Austria or Slovenia.
The coast is largely low-rise and carefully managed, the villages inland are uncrowded and welcoming, and the overall pace is unhurried – more long lunch than liquid lunch. It’s not undiscovered but it remains one of the few places on the Adriatic where you can enjoy world-class food, warm seas and quiet coves without needing a wristband or waiting for a day-tripper ferry to clear.
From April to October, Istria’s coast is perfect for sailing – and by late summer, it’s at its best. The sea’s still warm, the ports less packed, and the sunsets are spectacular.
For those with their own vessel – or the means to charter one – there are 11 full-service marinas to choose from, all well run and efficiently maintained. The slickest include Marina Veruda in Pula, ACI Marina Rovinj (extensively renovated in 2019 and designed for larger yachts), and Marina Polesana, which will be joined in 2025 by the new Monumenti – a heritage hotel with views of the Roman amphitheatre, the Brijuni Islands, and indulgent spa facilities. From modern berths to historic navigation points – including nine listed lighthouses – the coastline caters equally well to serious sailors and casual cruisers.
Six of them fly the Blue Flag – a mark of environmental quality and safety – and most offer concierge-level services including provisioning, security, and transfers. Out of a total of 43 Blue Flags on the beaches of the peninsula this year, Poreč can proudly boast the highest number — 18 — making it the destination with the most well-maintained and cleanest beaches in Croatia, and beyond
Private boat hire with skippers is easy to arrange, and sunset cruises depart daily from most harbours. If spending days at sea doesn’t float your boat, then there’s kayaking, windsurfing, jet skiing, and stand-up paddleboarding on offer, too. Or you can just dive in off the rocks and float for hours in water that stays reliably warm into October.
Nature lovers should head to Cape Kamenjak, a wild headland at Istria’s southern tip, with rocky cliffs, turquoise lagoons, and barely a beach bar in sight. Protected from overdevelopment, it’s ideal for off-grid swimming, snorkelling, or simply escaping to a shaded terrace with a glass of local wine.
Or cruise north to Lim Bay, where forested hills roll down to an inlet full of oyster farms, mirrored water, and a few excellent seafood restaurants.
Off the western shore, the Brijuni Islands offer national park status and serious history – think Roman ruins, olive groves, and even a low-key safari park (once part of Tito’s private retreat). Access is restricted, but private boats are welcome to anchor nearby.
The eastern coast is quieter still. It’s rugged, green, and ideal for anchoring overnight in peace. It attracts fewer visitors, but those who do arrive by sea tend to stay longer, and return. And if you’d rather not leave dry land, the coastline is dotted with discreet waterfront bars where the evening ritual is simple: a cocktail, a clear horizon, and an Adriatic sunset to die for.
Croatia’s not about grilled fish and chips on the harbour wall. Istria is one of the country’s top food regions; white and black truffles, extra-virgin olive oil, wild asparagus, and fresh-caught Adriatic seafood are local staples.
In fact, Rovinj is the only place in Croatia with three Michelin-starred restaurants: Monte, Cap Aureo, and two-star Agli Amici. Expect fine dining with a sea breeze, professional service, and impressive wine lists featuring small-batch local producers.
In quieter coves and harbour towns like Novigrad, Vrsar and Fažana, family-run konobas serve grilled langoustines, octopus carpaccio and handmade pasta with truffle in shaded courtyards. Wine is local, unpretentious, and frequently excellent.
When you’ve had enough sea air, wander through the cobbled streets of Rovinj, tour the Roman Amphitheatre in Pula (still used for open-air performances), or check out the 6th-century mosaics in Poreč’s Euphrasian Basilica, a UNESCO site that rarely feels busy, even in season.
The pace inland is even slower. Hilltop villages like Grožnjan and Motovun offer panoramic views, art galleries, and wine tastings, all without the coachload crowds of more well-trodden routes.
And for families or adrenaline junkies, there’s Aquacolors Poreč, Istralandia Waterpark, and even a treetop ropes course at Glavani Park. Activities like snorkelling and wreck diving are easy to book via local guides, with over two dozen mapped snorkelling spots along the coast for all levels of ability. Several operators now offer private adventure itineraries tailored for small groups.
Need to know
When to go: Late August to October is ideal with warm seas, golden evenings, fewer crowds, and better rates on charters and accommodation.
How to get there: Fly direct to Pula (until October), or drive in from Slovenia or Italy – ideal for a road trip with vineyard stops. Some visitors arrive by yacht, catamaran or high-speed boat from Venice (services run until 5 October), or by hydrofoil from Trieste (until 1 September).
Where to stay: Stylish hotels and villa rentals cluster around Rovinj, Poreč, and Novigrad, while quieter inland villages offer converted farmhouses and private estates with full service.
What to pack: Swimwear, deck shoes, a light jacket, and a big appetite.
Further Information
Produced in partnership with the Istria Tourist Board. For more on the region, including travel information, curated itineraries and the latest events, visit www.istra.hr/en
