Tripadvisor says this is one of the best hotels on Earth — we went to see for ourselves

Recently awarded Tripadvisor’s “Best of the Best” and ranked among the top one per cent of hotels worldwide, Hotel Schwarzenstein in South Tyrol’s Ahrntal valley combines vast spa facilities with Alpine adventure across all four seasons, discovers John E. Kaye

In South Tyrol’s Ahrntal valley, a family-run property has joined the top tier of global hospitality. Hotel Schwarzenstein in Luttach was recently awarded Tripadvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Best of the Best, a ranking that places it among the top one per cent of hotels worldwide. The hotel, nestled in the upper Ahrntal, a short drive from Brunico and within easy reach of the Austrian border, was recognised for its service standards and guest satisfaction by the review platform, which draws on millions of verified traveller ratings each year.

It places the property, which combines extensive wellness facilities with family-run management, in the highest bracket of hotels across the globe. If you’ve never been to South Tyrol, the scale of the valley, and of Schwarzenstein’s spa, can take your breath away. The wellness complex alone covers 7,700 square metres, making it one of the largest in the Alps.

The pool offering here is a case in point. There’s a 25-metre infinity pool for those who like to swim proper lengths; a second 25-metre pool designed with families in mind; a rooftop Sky Pool with an adjoining whirlpool; and another whirlpool tucked into the sauna garden. On top of that, you’ll find a dedicated fun pool complete with a 60-metre slide where children (and plenty of giggling parents) queue up for repeat runs, while toddlers splash happily in their own shallow pool with fountains.

Come nightfall, be sure to take a dip in the main outdoor pool, where steam rises into the cold air as the mountains fade into darkness. It’s the most atmospheric spot in the valley to laze and stargaze after a long day. The spa continues with eight very different saunas. There is a panoramic glass-fronted “sky sauna” with mountain views, a log cabin built outdoors, herbal cabins with a softer heat, and even a vast “event sauna” fitted with multimedia effects.

When you’ve had enough of the heat, you can drift into one of the themed relaxation rooms, styled around water, fire, earth, air and a playfully named “Cloud 9”. Each space has its own mood: soft blue lighting and trickling fountains in one, warm amber tones in another, or cushioned daybeds set beneath gauzy drapes. The point is simple: you can pick the one that fits your mood at the time.

The treatment list on offer here is long (there are more than 100 options) but a good starting point is one of the massages using South Tyrolean herbs and oils, which draw on local traditions. A private spa suite is available for those who want it, alongside classics like massages and facials.

If you’d rather stay active than switch off, the hotel makes that easy too. The fitness centre takes up 300 square metres and is stocked with modern cardio and strength machines, while a second studio is given over to yoga sessions and group exercise classes.

The accommodation follows the same principle of scale and choice. Standard doubles work well for couples, while family suites and multi-room apartments give space for children to spread out. At the top end, some rooms come with whirlpools set on the balcony, private Finnish saunas, or terraces that wrap around two sides of the building. The style throughout is stripped back rather than showy, with pale wood, glass and clean lines creating an Alpine minimalism that feels warm and calming after a day outside.

Small touches make life easy inside the hotel, like strong Wi-Fi for those who need to check emails, an underground parking space for every guest, a HolidayPass Premium card for free local buses and trains, and hotel shuttles to ski lifts in winter or hiking trailheads in summer.

Schwarzenstein makes a point of looking after children properly, too, which in turn gives parents room to breathe. There’s a whole pool area built for families, plus a dedicated fun pool with that 60-metre slide toddlers and teenagers never tire of. Younger children can head for the treehouse-style miniclub, where staff run supervised games and activities, while older ones can burn off energy in the indoor sports hall. The upshot is that parents can hand over childcare with a clear conscience and slip away to the adults-only Sky Spa upstairs.

Meals shape the rhythm of a stay here, and Schwarzenstein’s “three-quarter board” means you are never far from the next one. Mornings begin with a buffet heavy on local produce like mountain cheeses, cured meats and fresh bread. Lunchtimes are lighter, with soups, salads and cakes laid out in the afternoons, before the evening shifts gear again with five- or six-course dinners. Chefs Armin Comploj and Patrick Zimmerhofer draw as easily on South Tyrolean tradition as on Italian influence: one night venison with juniper, the next handmade ravioli with herbs from the surrounding slopes. The wine list points firmly to the region too, encouraging guests to try its crisp whites and structured reds. With soft drinks, coffee and tea included, eating here feels generous rather than costly, and it’s an easy part of why many guests stay put rather than seeking out restaurants elsewhere.

But however impressive Schwarzenstein is inside, the real appeal lies in what you can do once you step outside. In autumn and winter, the Ahrntal valley becomes an adventure playground, with a mix of heartwarming — or heart-stopping — ways to spend your days.

If you enjoy walking, more than 300 kilometres of trails criss-cross the valley. You don’t need to be a hardened hiker either. You can tackle everything here from gentle riverside paths to vertical rock faces with via ferrata, fixed climbing routes of cables and ladders. Stop at one of the 60 alpine huts still open in autumn and you’ll find cheese, speck and new wine waiting.

In September and October, the Almabtrieb sees cattle decorated with flowers and bells descend from the high meadows in a slow, festive procession, while evenings bring Törggelen, the South Tyrolean ritual of roasted chestnuts, smoky speck and new wine served in rustic taverns.

Prefer two wheels to boots? Cyclists pedal the valley floor or grind up mountain roads, and if you’d rather keep things slower still, horse rides from the village stables give you the landscape at a trot.

As the snow arrives, the whole valley switches character as the slopes come into their own. Skiworld Ahrntal, which links Speikboden and Klausberg, offers runs for all levels, while the larger Kronplatz resort lies just beyond. If you don’t fancy downhill skiing, you can cross-country on groomed trails, strap on snowshoes for a quieter hike through the woods, or even join a ski tour to one of the peaks. Families make for the sled runs — including South Tyrol’s longest, a 10-kilometre descent from Speikboden to Lutago — while the boldest head for frozen waterfalls with local guides and learn the art of ice climbing.

By December, the towns here are packed with charming Christmas markets: Brunico’s stalls brim with gingerbread, mulled wine and hand-carved ornaments, while brass bands play carols that echo through the valley. After a day on the piste, give your legs a break by swapping skis for a sleigh or simply strolling the markets with a steaming mug in hand.

The best of all is that the altitude here, between 800 and 1,700 metres, is said to carry other health benefits too, from nudging red blood cell production to topping up vitamin D — handy, given the amount of strudel you’re likely to get through.

Further information
Produced with support from Hotel Schwarzenstein. To find out more about the resort, visit www.schwarzenstein.com

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